5/2/09
Went for another surf again today. The waves were phenomenal and it was another bright sunny day. Caught a few nice rides, so I was pretty stoked. We are definitely going back out for a early morning session tomorrow before we leave for Togiak. Mike bought a .22 Remington today. I am laughing at him right now as he is so frustrated because he took it apart and is having a hard time putting it back together. I am in an annoying kind of mood-the kind where Whit poked Gabes over and over with a pencil in the middle of a church service. Today started out being a hard day, and is ending up wonderfully. It is amazing how going outside clears my mind of all negativity. It is my healing source, and I wish I would take more advantage of it. I am on the right path now, so that’s good at least. A harbor seal paid me a visit during the sesh. I caught a glimpse of his white head out of the corner of my eye right after I got caught inside and was battling my way back out. I was so exhausted and about to give up when he looked at me with his dark eyes, giving me that extra motivation I needed to keep my arms paddling away.
I am reading a wonderful book right now called “Touch the Earth”. It is a compilation of quotes, passages, and narratives of Native Americans from various tribes and times. I only read one page a night, trying to make the wisdom of these words last. One song in particular has struck a deep note within me, and is constantly in my head. I recall it in moments like surfing, fishing, and being out on the water in general, so pretty much all the time. It embodies how I feel about things in this stage of my life, describing my views better than any words I can come up with. It was written by an Eskimo woman shaman.
“The great sea
Has sent me adrift
It moves me
As the weed in a great river
Earth and the great weather
Move me
Have carried me away
And move my inward parts with joy.”
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